Six Amino Acids among Natural Moisturizing Factors Responsible for Skin Hydration: Improvement and Anti-Aging of Skin by Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate-PiteraTM Containing Skin Moisturizer
Background: Natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) are filaggrin-derived components in the cornified layer that are critical for maintaining healthy skin moisturization and barrier function. However, studies have reported conflicting findings on the relationship between NMF levels and aging, while few studies have investigated this relationship clinically. To fill this research gap, we determined the levels of major NMF components such as free amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and urocanic acids, and individually verified their relationships with skin hydration, barrier function, age, and skin aging. Purpose: The objective of this study was to clinically investigate the relationship between NMF components’ levels and skin aging in facial skin. The main NMF components were obtained from facial skin and quantified. We then selected NMF components showing strong relationships to skin hydration, and analyzed the relationships of the levels of these selected NMF components with signs of skin aging, namely, texture, pores, wrinkles, and dullness (L-value). We also examined the efficacy of treatment with a skin care formula (SK-II Facial Treatment Essence, called SK-II FTE hereafter) including Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF, PiteraTM) on the selected NMF component levels associated with skin hydration and barrier function, and the signs of skin aging of texture, pores, wrinkles, and dullness (L-value). Method: We conducted two clinical trials in this research. In Study 1, we measured 23 NMF components using tape-stripped cornified layer to quantify them via an HPLC method in 196 Asian females aged 20 to 59 (mean ± S.D., 38.6 ± 9.4). Facial visual aging parameters [texture, pores, wrinkles, and dullness (L-value)], as well as elasticity (R7), skin hydration, and TEWL, were quantified using facial skin imaging and skin physical property measurement devices.Study 2 was performed to evaluate whether the facial application of SK-II FTE affects the NMF levels and skin aging parameters in 63 Asian female volunteers aged 20 to 55 (38.4 ± 9.03). During the course of Study 2, 0.6 mL of SK-II FTE was applied to the face twice daily in the morning and afternoon. Skin measurements were performed at the start of the day (baseline) and at week 8. Results: In Study 1, we examined the stratum corneum levels of 23 NMF
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