The epidermis, and in particular its outermost layer, the stratum corneum, contributes much of the barrier function of the skin and is a readily visible representation of skin health. Maintaining the health of the skin barrier has arguably become more important than ever in the modern world, in which a large majority of people are exposed to environmental insults. These external factors can damage the integrity of the skin barrier and prematurely age the skin. Therefore, it has become increasingly important to maintain and protect the stratum corneum. Here, we briefly review the complex, multilayered structure of the skin and relate it to clinically translatable function, with an emphasis on the stratum corneum. In the context of epidermal structure and function, the formulation and clinical data for Phelityl？ Reviving Cream will be reviewed. Phelityl Reviving Cream was shown to be associated with improvements in both immediate- and long-term parameters, including a significant positive effect on the skin barrier and immediate and long-lasting hydration.
References
[1]
Lopez-Ojeda, W., Pandey, A., Alhajj, M. and Oakley, A.M. (2024) Anatomy, Skin (Integument). StatPearls Publishing, Treasure Island. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK441980/
[2]
Roberts, W. (2021) Air Pollution and Skin Disorders. International Journal of Women’s Dermatology, 7, 91-97. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijwd.2020.11.001
[3]
Marieb, E.N. and Hoehn, K. (2019) Human Anatomy and Physiology. 11th Edition, Pearson Education Ltd.
[4]
Sandby-Møller, J., Poulsen, T. and Wulf, H.C. (2003) Epidermal Thickness at Different Body Sites: Relationship to Age, Gender, Pigmentation, Blood Content, Skin Type and Smoking Habits. Acta Dermato-Venereologica, 83, 410-413. https://doi.org/10.1080/00015550310015419
[5]
Murthy, S.N. and Shivakumar, H.N. (2010) Topical and Transdermal Drug Delivery. In: Kulkarni, V.S., Ed., Handbook of Non-Invasive Drug Delivery Systems, Elsevier Inc., 1-36.
[6]
Kim, B., Cho, H., Moon, S.H., Ahn, H., Bae, S., Cho, H., et al. (2020) Transdermal Delivery Systems in Cosmetics. Biomedical Dermatology, 4, Article No. 10. https://doi.org/10.1186/s41702-020-0058-7
[7]
Knox, S. and O’Boyle, N.M. (2021) Skin Lipids in Health and Disease: A Review. Chemistry and Physics of Lipids, 236, Article 105055. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chemphyslip.2021.105055
[8]
Del Rosso, J.Q. and Levin, J. (2011) The Clinical Relevance of Maintaining the Functional Integrity of the Stratum Corneum in Both Healthy and Disease-Affected Skin. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 4, 22-42.
[9]
Harding, C.R. (2004) The Stratum Corneum: Structure and Function in Health and Disease. Dermatologic Therapy, 17, 6-15. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1001.x
[10]
Cha, H.J., He, C., Zhao, H., Dong, Y., An, I. and AN, S. (2016) Intercellular and Intracellular Functions of Ceramides and Their Metabolites in Skin (Review). International Journal of Molecular Medicine, 38, 16-22. https://doi.org/10.3892/ijmm.2016.2600
[11]
Khnykin, D., Miner, J.H. and Jahnsen, F. (2011) Role of Fatty Acid Transporters in Epidermis. Dermato-Endocrinology, 3, 53-61. https://doi.org/10.4161/derm.3.2.14816
[12]
Prottey, C., Hartop, P.J. and Press, M. (1975) Correction of the Cutaneous Manifestations of Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency in Man by Application of Sunflower-Seed Oil to the Skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 64, 228-234. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12510667
[13]
Hansen, A.E., Haggard, M.E., Boelsche, A.N., Adam, D.J.D. and Wiese, H.F. (1958) Essential Fatty Acids in Infant Nutrition. The Journal of Nutrition, 66, 565-576. https://doi.org/10.1093/jn/66.4.565
[14]
Gunnarsson, M., Mojumdar, E.H., Topgaard, D. and Sparr, E. (2021) Extraction of Natural Moisturizing Factor from the Stratum Corneum and Its Implication on Skin Molecular Mobility. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 604, 480-491. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jcis.2021.07.012
[15]
Huang, Z., Lin, Y. and Fang, J. (2009) Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology. Molecules, 14, 540-554. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules14010540
[16]
Woodby, B., Penta, K., Pecorelli, A., Lila, M.A. and Valacchi, G. (2020) Skin Health from the Inside Out. Annual Review of Food Science and Technology, 11, 235-254. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-food-032519-051722
[17]
Markiewicz, E. and Idowu, O.C. (2019) DNA Damage in Human Skin and the Capacities of Natural Compounds to Modulate the Bystander Signalling. Open Biology, 9, Article 190208. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsob.190208
[18]
Nguyen, A.V. and Soulika, A.M. (2019) The Dynamics of the Skin’s Immune System. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 20, Article 1811. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms20081811
[19]
Cartron, M.L., England, S.R., Chiriac, A.I., Josten, M., Turner, R., Rauter, Y., et al. (2014) Bactericidal Activity of the Human Skin Fatty Acid cis-6-Hexadecanoic Acid on Staphylococcus aureus. Antimicrobial Agents and Chemotherapy, 58, 3599-3609. https://doi.org/10.1128/aac.01043-13
[20]
Byrd, A.L., Belkaid, Y. and Segre, J.A. (2018) The Human Skin Microbiome. Nature Reviews Microbiology, 16, 143-155. https://doi.org/10.1038/nrmicro.2017.157
[21]
Zheng, Y., Hunt, R.L., Villaruz, A.E., Fisher, E.L., Liu, R., Liu, Q., et al. (2022) Commensal Staphylococcus epidermidis Contributes to Skin Barrier Homeostasis by Generating Protective Ceramides. Cell Host & Microbe, 30, 301-313.e9. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chom.2022.01.004
[22]
Biniek, K., Kaczvinsky, J., Matts, P. and Dauskardt, R.H. (2015) Understanding Age-Induced Alterations to the Biomechanical Barrier Function of Human Stratum Corneum. Journal of Dermatological Science, 80, 94-101. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2015.07.016
[23]
Rogers, J., Harding, C., Mayo, A., Banks, J. and Rawlings, A. (1996) Stratum Corneum Lipids: The Effect of Ageing and the Seasons. Archives of Dermatological Research, 288, 765-770. https://doi.org/10.1007/bf02505294
[24]
Choi, E., Man, M., Xu, P., Xin, S., Liu, Z., Crumrine, D.A., et al. (2007) Stratum Corneum Acidification Is Impaired in Moderately Aged Human and Murine Skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 127, 2847-2856. https://doi.org/10.1038/sj.jid.5700913
[25]
Del Rosso, J., Zeichner, J., Alexis, A., Cohen, D. and Berson, D. (2016) Understanding the Epidermal Barrier in Health and Compromised Skin: Clinically Relevant Information for the Dermatology Practitioner: Proceedings of an Expert Panel Roundtable Meeting. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 9, S2-S8.
[26]
Schuffenhauer, P. (2024) Phelityl Reviving Cream Study. Erno Laszlo Data on File.
[27]
Higdon, J. (2003) Essential Fatty Acids. Linus Pauling Institute. https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/other-nutrients/essential-fatty-acids
[28]
Kulaitienė, J., Medveckienė, B., Levickienė, D., Vaitkevičienė, N., Makarevičienė, V. and Jarienė, E. (2020) Changes in Fatty Acids Content in Organic Rosehip (Rosa Spp.) Seeds during Ripening. Plants, 9, Article 1793. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants9121793
[29]
Dragicevic, N. and Maibach, H.I. (2015) Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers Chemical Methods in Penetration Enhancement: Drug Manipulation Strategies and Vehicle Effects. Springer-Verlag Berlin, 3-11.
[30]
Mourelle, M., Gómez, C. and Legido, J. (2017) The Potential Use of Marine Microalgae and Cyanobacteria in Cosmetics and Thalassotherapy. Cosmetics, 4, Article 46. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4040046
[31]
The Derm Review (2022) Marine Extracts in Skin Care. https://thedermreview.com/marine-extracts-skin-care/
[32]
Milani, M. and Sparavigna, A. (2017) The 24-Hour Skin Hydration and Barrier Function Effects of a Hyaluronic 1%, Glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica Stem Cells Extract Moisturizing Fluid: An Intra-Subject, Randomized, Assessor-Blinded Study. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 10, 311-315. https://doi.org/10.2147/ccid.s144180
[33]
Schachner, L., Alexis, A., Andriessen, A., Baldwin, H., Cork, M., Kirsner, R. and Woolery-Lloyd, H. (2023) The Importance of a Healthy Skin Barrier from the Cradle to the Grave Using Ceramide-Containing Cleansers and Moisturizers: A Review and Consensus. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 22, s3-s14.
